Saturday, April 7, 2007

Pet Dog Health - Dog Barking

Pet Dog Health - Dog Barking

Dogs bark for a number of reasons. Sometimes these can be good reasons such as to warn of an intruder or to express fright or pain. Sometimes these can be “bad” reasons as far as humans are concerned – attempts to sound menacing or simply to get attention fall into this category. Whatever the reason for a dog’s barking, it can often be considered a nuisance by the dog’s owners and their neighbors alike. Because of this there are several methods employed to control a barking dog.

Training

By far the best method of controlling incessant barking is to train the dog not to bark or, more specifically, to bark only at the appropriate times. There are several ways to accomplish this, but dog trainers usually agree that traditional reward and reprimand systems are the most effective and the kindest to use.

Some people opt for an electronic “bark collar” as a shortcut to training the dog themselves. The collar contains an electronic device which is activated by the action of the dog barking. The device issues a small electric shock which pains and startles the dog. Eventually the dog is able to associate the negative stimulus with the barking and stops doing it.

The problems with these systems are multiple, however. Some dogs simply don’t learn that the barking is the cause of the negative stimulus, and continue to bark despite the discomfort it causes. Particularly hairy dogs may not even feel the shock or activate the device because its metal points must contact the skin directly in order to deliver the shock. Also, the collar itself is not enough and must be backed up with training anyway. It is a bad idea to use the collars for an extended period of time.

Some owners find the concept of delivering an electric shock to the dog to be “cruel.” While that may be a matter of personal opinion, the collars are proven to provide only minor discomfort for a short time and will not actually harm the dog.

A similar type of collar now uses a high pitched beep which the dog can hear but is almost inaudible to humans. It works much like a dog whistle, it will not hurt the dog at all, which is much more humane, and will still (hopefully) teach it to stop barking. I have used this method myself and found it to be very effective.

Another type of collar that operates on the same principle delivers a mist of citronella in front of the dog’s nose. Dogs hate the smell and soon realize that it is caused by the barking. Success rates for citronella collars are comparable to those of the electronic variety.

Surgery

I wanted to mention this because it is an option but I do not condone it nor would I ever suggest it, and I don't know of any vets that would suggest it anyhow! By far the most extreme method of controlling a dog’s barking is to have it undergo debarking surgery. In this procedure a small fold of tissue is removed from the larynx of the dog, rendering it unable to bark. I find this procedure to be inhumane and, since the dog’s bark may return after a few months anyway, it is certainly a less than perfect method which few vets, if any, will recommend.

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Tuesday, April 3, 2007

Pet Dog Health - CPR for Dogs

Pet Dog Health - CPR for Dogs

Anyone who has been to a CPR class is familiar with the basics of mouth-to-mouth resuscitation. First you’ll check to be sure the patient has a clear airway, then check to see if the patient is breathing, check whether the patient has a heartbeat and, if the patient awakens during the process, be careful that you don’t get bitten by the patient.

The American Red Cross has been instructing people in CPR for pets for quite some time now and has classes that include all manner of first aid, including mouth-to-snout resuscitation. You read that correctly; mouth-to-snout.

The procedure is similar to traditional mouth-to-mouth resuscitation between humans, the chief difference being that the person performing the procedure will close the dog’s mouth and instead provide breaths into the dog’s nose. The process sounds humorous in theory, but it works and knowing how to perform mouth-to-snout resuscitation on your pet could literally save its life.

According to a March 2002 story from The Scoop, a website that reports on dogs in the news, a dog in Walla Walla, Washington that was choking nearly to death was saved by a quick-acting Good Samaritan who was trained in mouth-to-snout.

After being revived, the dog was treated at the Walla Walla Associated Veterinary Clinic and released.

In addition to the mouth-to-snout procedure, dogs can have chest compressions performed in an emergency where the heart stops. Learning and knowing these techniques can save the life of a dog in distress and let him live to chase rabbits or play fetch another day.

The concept of pet CPR is gaining much notoriety and is starting to be taught by organizations all over the country that formerly provided traditional CPR training and certification. If you’re interested in taking these classes yourself, contact your local Red Cross. The life you save may be your dog’s.

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Monday, April 2, 2007

Pet Dog Health - Kennel Cough

Pet Dog Health - Kennel Cough

The condition commonly known as “Kennel Cough” is one of the most prevalent infectious diseases that dogs can contract. The disease is not serious in most cases, however, and often resolves itself after one to two weeks. The accepted medical term for kennel cough is tracheobronchitis, indicating a form of bronchitis that affects the dog’s trachea.

Kennel cough can be caused by several airborne bacteria and viruses. It is generally accepted that most cases of kennel cough are caused by the bacteria Bordetella bronchiseptica but it has also been associated with the canine distemper virus (CDV) and canine parainfluenza. It is the general consensus of the veterinary medical community that in order to cause the illness, an animal must be virtually bombarded by multiple versions of these pathogens at one time. For this reason it is dogs that spend a lot of time around other dogs that are most at risk for the disease. Dogs that participate in dog shows or spend a lot of time in kennels are the highest risks for kennel cough.

The primary symptom of kennel cough is a dry, spasmodic cough which is caused by the inflammation of the dog’s trachea and bronchi. Coughing spells will often result in the dog coughing up a white and foamy discharge. Some dogs will also develop conjunctivitis – an inflammation of the membrane that lines the eyelids. Nasal discharge may also be present. In effect, the dog appears to have a very nasty cold or flu. As stated above, the disease is rarely serious and almost never life-threatening. Still, if you have seen any of these symptoms or have reason to believe that your dog has or has been exposed to kennel cough, you should consult your vet immediately.

Your vet will be able to diagnose kennel cough with a physical examination and medical history. The cough associated with the ailment is very characteristic and a simple massage of the dog’s throat can usually cause it to cough on cue. In some cases, such as if the dog is depressed or feverish or expelling a yellow or green discharge, the doctor may require additional diagnostic tests such as a complete blood count (CBC) and laboratory testing of microorganisms in the dog’s airway. These tests will help the doctor rule out other infectious diseases such as influenza, pneumonia, or canine distemper.

Immunization can help prevent kennel cough and is recommended. When kenneling your dog or traveling it may be required before your dog will be admitted. Effective immunization can be difficult, however, because the disease can be caused by so many different pathogens. Active prevention on your part can be accomplished by not allowing your dog’s toys or water and food bowls to be accessed by unfamiliar dogs. If participating in dog shows make sure that the area is well ventilated to assist with the expulsion of airborne pathogens.

Kennel cough is treated with antibiotics in most cases. Antibiotics will help prevent any secondary illnesses from developing while the dog gets over its case of kennel cough.

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Sunday, April 1, 2007

Pet Dog Health - Types of Toy Dogs

Pet Dog Health - Types of Toy Dogs

This may be a little off topic but I would like to talk about the different types of 'toy' dogs, and no these are not dogs that take batteries or that wind up!

“Toy” dogs are becoming more popular all the time. These little dogs are the result of generations of selective breeding. They are generally bred as companion animals and people just seem to love them. Their miniature size and playful nature (most toy breeds are good natured dogs with a few exceptions) make them wonderful companions.

Most of the toy dog breeds are originally from Asia where the process of selectively breeding dogs to make them smaller is believed to have begun, but there are plenty of toy breeds from other areas of the world as well.

Bichon Frise

A small dog that was originally bred as a companion dog, the Bichon Frise possesses a boisterous personality, is very tolerant of children, other animals and strangers, and is highly intelligent and very trainable. These dogs have a short and curly white coat that does require frequent grooming.

Chihuahua

The Chihuahua may be the best known of the toy dog breeds. They have a short or medium coat, are easy to groom, and possess average intelligence and trainability. They do not have the best personalities and are not tolerant of children, other animals, or strangers. The Chihuahua hails from Mexico originally and is the smallest of the toy dog breeds.

Maltese

The Maltese is a companion dog that was originally bred for royalty or the very wealthy. They are natural born troublemakers, but are very loyal to their owners. They are not at all good with children, other animals, or strangers. They’re considered to be dogs of average intelligence and trainability. Their beautiful coats require frequent grooming.

Pekingese

The Pekingese was originally bred for the Emperors of China. These little dogs have a boisterous personality and are not very tolerant of children or other animals. They do bark a lot and are often difficult to train. Wary of strangers they can make a good watchdog and will bark loudly when strangers approach their home.

Pug

The Pug comes from East Asia. Their short coat requires little grooming, but the folds and wrinkles of their faces must be cleaned often. Pugs make wonderful family dogs because they are very docile, don’t bark a lot, and are good with children and other animals. They are highly intelligent dogs and very social.

I hope this gives you and idea on different types of 'toy' dogs. I hope this helps you in your search for your favorite pet dog!

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Saturday, March 31, 2007

Pet Dog Health - Urine Stains

Pet Dog Health - How to remove Urine Stains


Ah those lovable dogs and their cute and clever antics! Don’t we love the way they play fetch and run and jump and roll around and lick us affectionately and pee all over the carpet and…

Pee all over the carpet? Well we don’t love that aspect of dog ownership, do we?

Dogs can be housebroken and trained to let their owners know when they need to go outside and make a little wee or some other bigger job, but before that happens – and sometimes after as well – the interior of your home becomes Rover’s marked territory. The stains and smells of fido's little mishaps and dishonorable discharges can leave a lasting impression on rugs and carpets, furniture, and other items in your home if they’re not taken care of immediately.

If you’re fortunate enough to catch Duke in the act of relieving himself all over the Persian rug that was a gift from your mother-in-law, take the steps that have to do with the dog’s training and then attend to the poodle puddle right away. Use a rag or some paper towels to soak up as much of the mess as possible and then clean the area with a mixture of cold or lukewarm (never hot) water and some sort of cleaning agent. Peroxide works well at removing the chance of a stain as well as the odor, but it should not be used on certain fabrics or dyes. A dab of dishwashing liquid (the kind you use in the sink, not the dishwasher) mixed with water can do a good job on these fresh marks as well.

For stains that have been allowed to sit for a time you’ll need to take slightly more drastic measures. Organic cleansers like Spot Shot work best on stains like these and should be chosen over chemicals. If you do use chemicals, peroxide is your friend once again as it can act as a terrific stain remover. Again you’ll want to dilute with warm water and apply it to the area. Some scrubbing will be necessary, but it should be done as gently as possible, depending on the type of fabric. If we’re talking about carpet, some vigorous scrubbing will probably be okay as the fibers are designed to take a bit of a beating. Ah, the rigors of taking care of our Pet Dog's Health!

If the soiled items are washable fabrics like clothing, towels, or small throw rugs, the stains should come out in the wash. Put the item in the washer by itself with the regular laundry detergent that you would normally use and some color safe bleach (whites can and should be done with regular chlorine bleach).

The best way to deal with doggie urine stains is to avoid having them happen in the first place, which can be accomplished through careful and meticulous training. If the occasional whoopsie does happen, don’t lose your head. Deal with the dog in the appropriate manner and rest easy in the knowledge that, in most cases, pee washes out.

Also remember to never "punish" your puppy for doing his duty. This might make your lovable puppy scared to do anything when your around. All this means is more messes but it harder to reach and harder to see areas. So don't punish them! Just teach them how to do it right!

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Friday, March 30, 2007

Pet Dog Health - Dehydration!

Pet Dog Health - Treating Your Dog for Dehydration

Dehydration in dogs can be a serious matter. Whether caused by illness, exposure to heat, or a simple lack of fluid intake, dehydration must be addressed immediately and, left untreated, can cause multiple health problems including organ failure and death. It is very easy for a dog to become dehydrated; easier than many pet owners realize. Fortunately it is also easy to prevent dehydration in dogs and it is very important to do so.

Dehydration is an excess loss of bodily fluids. It most often involves the loss of water and minerals such as sodium, chloride, and potassium; collectively called electrolytes. Dehydration in dogs can be caused by illness (especially if the dog has a fever), exposure to extreme heat, and a number of other factors. A dog’s natural act of panting causes a loss of fluids and can result in dehydration if they are not replaced. Remember that dogs lack sweat glands to keep them cool. They pant in an effort to regulate their body temperature. A panting dog is a hot dog.

Preventing Dog Dehydration

The best way to prevent dehydration is to make sure your dog has plenty of fresh water available. The dog should always have at least one full bowl of water available at all times and, if the dog has the run of the house, bowls in various locations may be appropriate. If you live in a dry climate dogs should be kept indoors as much as possible, especially in the hot summer months. When they are outdoors it is imperative that dogs have an available supply of fresh water. Moist foods also help maintain appropriate levels of bodily fluids in dogs. Dry foods are important for a dog’s dental health, but moist foods are a good idea as well.

Treating a Dehydrated Dog

If you suspect that your dog is dehydrated, get it some water immediately and then get it to the vet. Signs of dehydration can include a lack of elasticity to the skin, dry and sunken eyes, and a dry mouth and nose. Dehydrated dogs will also experience a delay in capillary refill time. To test for this, pull the dog’s lip away from its gum (gently) and press a finger against the gum until the area whitens. Release your finger and the color should return to the area almost immediately. A delay could be an indication of dehydration.

Lots of water is the best way to replace fluids, but a severely dehydrated dog should not be allowed to take in large amounts at once. This will result in vomiting and a further loss of fluids. Instead let the dog drink small amounts over a period of time. Electrolytes can be replaced with a hydrating solution. Pedialyte, a water and electrolyte product sold for infants is suitable for dogs as well. Of course any dog that seems dehydrated or refuses to drink should be seen by a vet to determine appropriate treatment and whether the dehydration is a symptom of some other ailment.

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Thursday, March 29, 2007

Pet Dog Health - Heartwom

Heartworms in Dogs – What They Are & What to Do

Pet Dog Health

Heartworms (Latin name Dirofilaria immitis) are parasitic worms that are common in both dogs and cats. Like their name suggests, they live in the dog’s heart, normally free-floating in the right ventricle and nearby blood vessels. The worms are transmitted from dog to dog by mosquitoes which pass the worm larvae through their saliva. The presence of heartworms can be very dangerous to the dog’s health. Although the dog will not display signs of infection until it has progressed considerably, heartworms can be life threatening and are sometimes difficult to detect and diagnose.

Signs of Heartworm Infection

When a dog is first infected with heartworms, there are literally no signs and the presence of heartworms can not be detected even with a blood test. Once the worm larva reaches the heart and matures, however, signs that are detectable by X-ray start to develop almost immediately. These include damage to the blood vessels around the heart and lungs. It is rare that a dog will be infected by only one worm and as the mature worms in the heart grow in size and number, the conditions worsen, eventually causing a blockage of blood flow. It is at this point that the dog will start to display physical signs which can include pain, hypertension, difficulty breathing, lethargy or even fainting. In extremely progressed cases the dog can suffer from heart failure and death although by the time the heartworm disease has reached this stage the owner has probably realized that something is going on and sought veterinary care.

Treating Heartworm Infection

Once a dog has been diagnosed as having heartworms, treatment must be started. What this treatment is and how it is administered is dependant on the stage of heartworm infection. Generally, there are four stages of heartworm disease.

  • Stage One – Dogs at the lowest risk – heartworms are detected in X-rays but all other tests appear normal.

  • Stage Two – Dogs are moderately infected, may have some difficulty breathing and be demonstrating coughing

  • Stage Three – Dogs are severely affected & may display weight loss, have difficulty breathing, blood tests likely show kidney and/or liver damage

  • Stage Four – Dogs have Vena Cava Syndrome and are in shock, essentially dying – surgery may be undertaken to remove worms, but there is no guarantee that it will save the dog.

When it comes to heartworm in dogs, prevention truly is the best medicine. The best time to begin a preventative treatment is early in puppy-hood, before the dog is seven months old since dogs older than seven months are at a great risk for adverse reactions to the preventative treatments.

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